SANDUN Furniture's Solid Wood

2021-07-16 12:17:01
SANDUN Furniture

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The designing and developing of solid wood in FOSHAN SAN DUN Furniture CO., LTD requires stringent testing to ensure quality, performance, and longevity. Strict performance standards are set with real-world stimulation during this critical phase. This product is tested against other comparable products on the market. Only those that pass these rigorous tests will go to the marketplace.SANDUN Furniture products have won more and more favors since launched to the market. The sales have increased sharply in recent years and the feedbacks are all positive. Some claim that those are the best products they have received, and others commented that those products have attracted more attentions for them than before. Customers from over the world seek for cooperation to expand their business.As a service-focused company, SANDUN Furniture attaches great importance to the service quality. To ensure the products including solid wood delivered to customers safely and completely, we work with reliable freight forwarders with sincerity and closely follow up the logistics process.
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Are These T.V. Stands Suitable?
=== buying a TV stand is important to go to a reputable furniture store == not Walmart or those super discount cheapies ==== Best buy - Sears - Good brand furniture stores -- all will sell you good stuff ...the use of particle board in much of todays' furniture is a big problem to me and I have gone to building my own cabinets with solid wood === that may not be possible for you but you can buy a TV stand at Ethan Allen or Macy's that is good solid wood .... I live by this """ good wood properly used has never failed"""" -- glass and brass stands are another option for you .1. Does solid wood floor deform over time?I suppose there could be some expansion and contraction if you have huge fluctuations in humidity. I do not think it is a problem usually. Solid hardwood lasts for years and years. I am actually a fan of laminate if you have dogs in the house because the finish is really tough2. When installing 5" wide solid-wood, prefinished floor do I need to nail AND glue or can I just nail it down?hi josh, just secret nail the floorboards, through the tongue so that the nails are hidden. you can hire a porta-nailer very cheaply and its also pretty much foolproof to use...if your boards were any wider, you would need to face nail too. the only place you should use glue is between butt joints (where the end of one board meets the end of another) im assuming you know all about expansion, contraction, acclimatising the floor boards etc. if you do not email me and ill give you a crash course! take your time and enjoy it, its a satisfying job. best of luck!3. underfloor heating and solid wood floorI presume that "Wet System" means water filled tubing or piping. But oh yeah, wood is no problem & is extremely common, both nailed-down traditional floors & floating laminate floors. There's no steam or moisture being released & the floors do not heat to anything more than a hot summer day. However, insulation is okay but you really just need a shiny space blanket type of radiant barrier (the shiny side of tin foil) to reflect most of the heat upward & not even consider nor attempt thermal loading. You will be happier & more comfortable with a system that can heat up & cool down or just maintain a room's or building's temperature4. I have a solid wood table that is a family heirloom, how hard would it be to stain it to cover up some of the damages. Could I end up messing it up further?How are you sure it is stained? Keep in mind that stain is just the color like when you stain your shirt with mustard.If the piece is very old the difference in color might be that the clear coat has changed color... a tricky proposition to match even for a professional.As far as trying to touch it up on your own it is probably a good bet that it will be messed up more. Rather than trying to correct the problem I suggest that you have a piece of tempered glass cut and lay it over the top. Despite the expense it will be cheaper than having the piece refinished properly.I have a solid wood table that is a family heirloom, how hard would it be to stain it to cover up some of the damages. Could I end up messing it up further?.5. how does compression affect arch top jazz guitars?It can be either. The very best are handcarved from solid wood, the cheaper mass produced ones are pressed plywood/laminate (or stretched ply over wood bracing)6. will two 4 by 6 boards bolted together be as strong as one 4 by 12 board?Assuming you are suggesting bolting the 4 x 6's together side by side to make a 8 x 6 beam the answer is definitely - No. If they are bolted together to make a 4 x 12, the answer is still No since it will not be possible, with only a reasonable number of bolts, to develop a joint between the 4 x 6's that is as strong as solid wood would be. If they were glued together to make a 4 x 12 with a glue that developed a bond strength equal to the wood strength then they would be for practical purposes equal. As an example; From the Span Tables for Joists, American Softwood Lumber Standards; (The following would be for S-P-F, Select Structural Grade, Max. But a single 2 x 12 would span 17' - 11" Also a simpler example: Consider the strength of a flat 2 x 4 (4" wide by 2" high) vs a vertical 2 x 4 (2" wide by 4" high) Stand in the middle of an 8 footer, which will deflect the most?
Sealing MDF so It Doesn't Absorb Moisture
You do not actually need to seal the MDF so it does not absorb moisture, any more than studwork in walls, the interior components of cabinetry or the framework in covered chairs need to be sealed. Regardless of whether it's solid wood or a type of manmade board the material can be left to absorb and release moisture naturally with any changes in humidity. In any case the whole concept of "sealing" is commonly misunderstood, with only a few exceptions the coatings applied to wood do not truly seal the surface off from water vapour*. However, it looks like the natural colour of the MDF wo not suit the completed panels so I think you need to paint them. Normally when someone is looking to paint MDF the recommendations are about how to get the surface looking good since it will be on show (e.g. filling/sealing the edges, then primer and finally paint, with quite a bit of sanding thrown in there). But here it seems like you really only need to change the colour so you could go straight to paint. Matt black seems like it would be the ideal colour.*This is why even a fully varnished tabletop will still expand and contract through the seasons as humidity goes up and down.1. How to attach a rim joist on Free Standing Deck an inch away from the house?If you are building a "free standing" deck, then why are you wanting to attach it to the house? The proper way to build a deck that is attached to any house is to start at the house. Sounds like you went backwards on this project. You can see why because you have no room to work, now. First, you would install a ledger board to the house and proceed to build the rest of the deck off that ledger board. The board that is between the house and the deck is not called a "rim joist". At this point, you will need to use "Teeko" clips or metal fasteners to connect back to the house and a thicker ledger board to take up the last 1" of space. After fastening the ledger board to the deck with metal fasteners, you can proceed to fasten the same board to the house with minimum 1/2" diameter lag bolts/flat washers. Make sure they are long enough and that they go into solid wood (i.e. - floor joist is best or rim joist). Seal the top edge of the new ledger board to the house as to eliminate water intrusion.2. Exterior Sheathing with highest r-value?Exterior sheathing, such as T-111 or OSB, have little to no R-value. Solid wood has a R value of 1 per one inch of density. Where wood shines as an energy efficient product is heat retention. For example, a typical log home of 8 inch diameter logs only has a R- value of 8. However, the physical characteristics of the wood allows it to absorb and retain interior heat, creating a radiant heat effect.3. What do Americans call the wooden battens fixed across the end grain of solid wood table tops and drawing boards?As Dennis points out, a Google search for "breadboard end" gets lots of hits, e.g. Breadboard Ends . Don't goof up like I did by gluing them down completely (one of my panel boards split open).What do Americans call the wooden battens fixed across the end grain of solid wood table tops and drawing boards?.4. What is the difference in re finishing or refacing the kitchen cabinets which is less expensive?Trying to refinish a door is more trouble then it's worth and still not always possible. Think of all the grooves and nooks and crannies that you will have to sand with your finger tips ground into the sand paper. Also keep in mind many doors might just be a veneer rather then solid wood. If you try to sand veneer a sander would go through it in a blink of an eye right through to the particle board core. Replacing is an ok idea. We used to buy ours from Decorative Specialties out of California. You can order each door and drawer face by it's wood species and to the exact size. They have several hundred door and drawer styles to choose from. They run from $25 each for a little door such as above your fridge or micro to maybe $125 for pantry doors. Drawer faces around $20 each. The average being around $50 each for oak, slightly more for maple and much more for cherry. Keep in mind if you buy new doors you will have to drill the 32mm holes with a forstener bit and a very strong drill. Can you do this? The 32mm holes are for any standard concealed hinge. You would not have to drill if you do a wrap hinge but they are so fugly and outdated you will defeat the purpose. With wrap hinges you will have limited choices of door styles because the door edge has to match and except the wrap hinge. And do as you not paint cabinets. They will look horrible.
What Is the Order of These Woods' Strength Used to Make Furniture?
It depends on what you mean by strength. Hardness is not the same as resistance to splitting and just because a particular species is hard doesn't necessarily mean that it is best for all applications. If by strength, you mean characteristics that don't just include hardness That being said, Rosewood is probably slightly harder and heavier than Teak, though Teak has excellent weather resistance due to oils within the wood. When you work with it your hands get clean and soft. It often has silica sand locked in the grain and can be really tough to work with. It is being farmed as a crop in several parts of the world and is often used in boat building and outdoor furniture due to its weather resistance. Rosewood is more expensive and is usually used in musical instruments and smaller decorative pieces. It is also made into to veneer for fine furniture and cabinetry. There are several dozen species of Oak, just in North America, and they obviously are not all the same, though they are less dense than Teak or Rosewood. Red Oak is probably softer than White Oak, which can be used to make barrels because of the uniqueness of the grain. If you made a water container with Red Oak it would leak. Off the top of my head there are also Tan Oak, Pin Oak, Black Oak, Swamp Oak, Live Oak, Silverleaf Oak, and multiple variations of each. Oak and Teak are high in Tannic acid and will turn grey, then black when exposed to sunlight and especially if in contact with wet steel due to a chemical reaction. This process can be slowed with proper application of the appropriate finishes. Pine is the softest, lightest, and probably cheapest of the four because it grows fast, especially in managed forests where trees are allowed maximum exposure to sun and water. There are also many varieties of Pine, like Longleaf, Ponderosa, White, Yellow, Red, Lodgepole, Loblolly, and Torrey, to name a few. Pine is often used as framing lumber and as pulp wood to make particle board and paper. It can be quite beautiful, though its relative surface softness is not conducive to fine, delicate furniture. It is frequently used as interior construction parts of cabinetry and furniture. I hope that answered your question without too much unwanted information. I wasn't sure what exactly you were looking for, so just responded with what came to mind. · Other Questions Easiest way to get old paint off wood furniture? Before you can start the stripping process, it is necessary to choose the method that you will use to get rid of that old paint. There are actually three different ways that you can go about stripping paint and varnish. Be sure to choose the technique that is most suited to your particular project. Sanding: Sanding is one of the oldest methods used to remove paint and varnish. It uses sandpaper in order to remove paint layers and varnish. It is also great for preparing the surface of your furniture for a new paint job. Sanding can be performed by hand, using a variety of sandpapers or it can be performed using mechanical sanding tools. * Hand Sanding: Hand sanding requires a lot of time and physical effort, but it can be very effective for smaller jobs and more delicate pieces of furniture. It is best suited for pieces of furniture that only have one existing layer of paint or varnish. * Mechanical Sanding: Mechanical sanding involves using a variety of power tools in order to sand off the old layers of paint. Circular sanders, belt sanders, and orbital sanders are often used, because they can remove paint layers quickly and easily. Mechanical sanders are recommended for large pieces of furniture that have multiple layers of paint. How To Sand Off Paint: If you decide to sand off your paint finish, always use coarse, open-coat sandpaper. Other types of sandpaper are too easily clogged with paint and wood dust. Always sand with the grain, beginning with a coarse sand paper. Once you can see the grain of the wood furniture, switch to medium grit sandpaper. Use a fine grit sandpaper to remove all remaining bits of finish. Be sure to wear protective goggles and a face mask when sanding off old paint. Heat Stripping: Heat can now be used effectively in order to strip paint and varnish from wood furniture. Heat guns and blowtorches help to destroy the film contained in the paint, allowing it to be removed from the surface of the wood. Both heat guns and blowtorches are suitable for removing thicker layers of paint, however care must be taken when using these tools. The heat from these tools can cause serious burns and has been known to start fires when used in poorly ventilated areas. How to Strip Paint with Heat: If you decide to strip your paint finish with a heat tool, practice a little bit beforehand. This will give you an idea of how hot these heat guns actually get. If you are using a blowtorch, practice lighting it before you try to remove any paint. Always wear protective gloves and goggles when using these instruments. Hold the heat gun or blowtorch six to eight inches from the surface of the furniture. Slowly move the heat gun or blowtorch over the surface of the piece of furniture. When you see the finish starting to wrinkle and bubble up, you can begin to scrape the paint off using a paint scraper. Be careful not to hold the blowtorch or heat gun in one position for too long because it will cause the wood to burn and, possibly, catch on fire. Chemical Paint Strippers: Chemical paint strippers are typically the easiest way to remove paint. They work by softening the surface of the paint or varnish, so you can then scrape it off. Chemical pain strippers require little physical labor and are usually quite safe to use. They also come in a variety of different forms, from gels to aerosols. Each chemical stripper is suited to a different type of furniture, so be sure to read the labels on each product carefully. Some chemical strippers can remove up to 10 layers of paint, while others can only remove two. How To Strip Paint with Chemical Strippers: If you decide to strip your paint finish using a chemical stripper, be sure you are working in a well-ventilated area because fumes can be toxic. Also wear heavy duty, chemical-resistant gloves. Spray the chemical stripper on the piece of furniture or paint it on thickly using a paintbrush. Leave the chemical on for the specified amount of time (typically 20 to 30 minutes). After the chemical has set, test it to see if it is ready for removal. Using your paint scraper, scratch the piece of furniture lightly and in a circular motion. If this exposes the wood, the paint is ready to be scraped off. Additional applications of chemical stripper may be required to remove all layers of paint. Stripping Tips: Stripping paint isnt always the easiest job in the world, so here are some tips to make the going a little more pleasant: * For irregular surfaces, use chemical paint strippers. They can cling to surfaces well and can get into all of those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. * Use steel wool or copper scouring pads to remove paint from the inside of cut outs or on legs or spindles. * Only apply chemical paint strippers to small areas at a time. This will allow you to remove all of the paint before the chemical stripper dries. * Investigate environmentally-friendly paint strippers.
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